Horseshoes For Sale in Massachusetts

Performance Alternative Horseshoes

Information on Horseshoes On A Horse in  Massachusetts

Plastic Clip On Horseshoes

Horseshoes and the Trims They Bring - HorseShoe Manufactures Set the Trend, Our Horses Pay the Price

Who can shoe Horses?

There is a misconception that blacksmiths shoe horses - they don't. Blacksmiths work with iron, but may never come into contact with horses. Blacksmiths can shoe horses if they have also had training to become a farrier. The profession of farriers is a very old one, established in 1356, during the reign of Edward III. The formal description of a farrier's work is 'any work in connection with the preparation or treatment of the foot of a horse for the immediate reception of a shoe thereon, the fitting by nailing or otherwise of a shoe to the foot, or the finishing off of such work to the foot'. The blacksmith might make the shoe, the farrier will fit it. It's a bit more complicated though, as the farrier also needs to have training as a blacksmith to make or modify the shoes correctly.

To put a horse shoe on a horse you need to be properly trained - it is not enough simply to have a horse shoe of the right size, you need to understand the horse's hoof and his conformation and how his feet are affecting the way he moves. Domesticated horses need regular attendance from the farrier.

The farrier's tools and apron have remained virtually the same since the 14th century, the only difference nowadays is that horses don't normally go to the forge to be shod. The 'forge' is more usually a portable gas oven which means the farrier can travel to the horse.

Shoeing a horse takes expertise and knowledge. To become a farrier you must serve an apprenticeship of just over four years.

Shoeing a Horse

The first step is to straighten the clenches - these are the pieces of nail bent over the side of the hoof wall. They are straightened with a buffer and hammer. The shoe can then be levered off using pincers.

Next the surface of the hoof is levelled off using a rasp. Horses hooves grow like our fingernails, so the excess growth has to be trimmed off with hoof cutters. A drawing knife is finally used to tidy up the ragged pieces of the sole and frog. This does not hurt the horse at all - it's just like having our nails trimmed. The hoof is now prepared for the shoe.

Shoeing can either be hot or cold. Precise measurements need to be taken and the shoe normally shaped off site with cold shoeing. As only very slight adjustments can be made to a cold shoe, hot shoeing is more common and more versatile. The farrier either carries a range of horse shoes in various sizes, or straight pieces that can be shaped to the foot. With hot shoeing the shoe can be very precisely shaped to the foot.

Firstly the shoe will be placed in the forge until the metal glows red hot. Using a pritchel the hot shoe is held against the surface of the hoof. When you watch this for the first time it is quite dramatic, as hot smoke and steam rises from the shoe and the air is full of the smell of burning. But the horse can feel nothing. The slight burning marks left on the foot will show where alterations need to be made, and the farrier will remove the shoe and shape it over an anvil. The process will be repeated until the farrier is happy with the fit. Once the farrier is happy the horse shoe will be quenched (immersed) in a bucket of cold water.

Now the shoe is ready to be nailed onto the horse's foot. Normally seven nails are used, but the condition of the hoof will dictate how many are needed. The nail is driven in so that it slants towards the outside leaving part of the nail sticking outside the wall of the hoof. The excess nail is cut of, and the sharp point smoothed down with a rasp. The nail is then bent over to make a clench.

The whole process is repeated for each of the four hooves. Assuming the horse hasn't lost a shoe in the meantime, the farrier will revisit in about six weeks to replace the set of shoes.

Why do Horses wear Shoes?

So why do we shoe horses? In the wild horses move on continuously to find fresh pasture and go over a variety of terrains and surfaces in his hunt for food. This naturally keeps the horses hooves down to a smooth, hard and even state. Our domesticated horses walk around less, and their feet do not have the same opportunity to harden. Nutrients such as carotene are essential to healthy hooves, and carotene is found in far higher amounts in live vegetation, rather than in processed or dried food. Our horses also are asked to do more - they are ridden or driven - which means their legs and feet are more weight bearing then they would be in the wild!

When were Horses First Shod?

As horses hooves are delicate, and people depended on them people as far back as Ancient Asia wrapped hooves in rawhide and leather.

The Romans were the first people who used a combination of leather and metal to shoe their horses so they would be able to travel further on the roman roads. Metal shoes as we know them appeared in Europe in around the 6th or 7th century. Hot shoeing became common in the 15th Century.

Looking after your Horse's Feet Today

A horse in regular work also needs to have his feet checked regularly otherwise the hoof will grow large, long and fragile, and cracks may appear. If his hoof gets misshapen his legs may become damaged if he walks abnormally - not only will this be uncomfortable for him, he won't be able to be ridden.

Even horses which are turned out without being worked need to have their hooves checked and trimmed regularly.

Normally horses need shoeing every six weeks, and arrangements should be made for a farrier to attend at this interval. Sometimes shoes which have not been worn down too far can be re-used and replaced after the hooves are trimmed. Some hooves grow at different rates depending on the time of year - fresh spring grass can cause a growth spurt.

# 1 – What are Nanoflex Horseshoes, and how do they function?

Nanoflex Horseshoes are a shapable polyurethane straight glue on shoe that resembles the natural make-up as well as put on qualities of the hoof. Our footwear are commonly used in performance and also restorative situations as an alternative application with horses that become unresponsive to conventional shoeing techniques.

With their capability to resemble the technician residential or commercial properties of the foot – Nanoflex Horseshoes boost the feature of the hoof, instead of limiting it. This commonly leads to a much more comfortable equine with healthier development.

# 2 – What are the benefits of Nanoflex shoes?

Nanoflex footwear supply several advantages for the steed. Most typically, we listen to customers describing the shoes ability to operate as an all-natural extension of the unguis as the most desirable attribute. The direct glue application together with the shoe’s composition are thought to preserve the regular hoof features of assistance, traction, shock absorption as well as proprioception by bending with the unguis.

In our opinion, traditional adhesive on footwear over long term use tend to reverse the preliminary benefits attained because of the casting nature of an inflexible footwear. In contrast, our observations have found Nanoflex shoes to be successful for long term use and also appear to produce much healthier horn development.

# 3 – How much time will the Nanoflex shoes last?

Nanoflex Horseshoes are created to have the same or comparable life expectancy as typical footwear. We advise shoeing your horse according to the ordinary cycle of 4-6 weeks, based on their personal demands.

# 4 – Are Nanoflex footwear much more costly than conventional shoes?

Yes. The moment it takes to produce our shoes, in addition to the materials as well as craftsmanship required for the application procedure makes Nanoflex Horseshoes a true investment.

# 5 – What makes an equine an excellent prospect for Nanoflex horseshoes?

Under our “Shoes” tab, you will certainly find “Selecting A Candidate” alternative in the drop down menu. If you see this web page you will certainly find a comprehensive description of the 4 main factors we take into consideration before determining if a horse is a Nanoflex prospect.

Company Information:

Name: John Filipelli

Email: sales@nanoflexinc.com

Organization: Nanoflex, Inc.

Address: South Florida Trotting Center: 7563 State Road 7, Lake Worth FL 33449, USA

Phone: (954) 857-6337

Monday

8AM–7PM

Tuesday

8AM–7PM

Wednesday

8AM–7PM

Thursday

8AM–7PM

Friday

8AM–7PM

Saturday

10AM–5PM

Sunday

12AM–5PM

Find Horseshoes On A Horse in the State of Massachusetts


Where to find information about Horseshoes On A Horse in Massachusetts

How Often Should You Shoe Your Horse? The Real Deal on Hoof Steel

are horseshoes good for horses

Horseshoe Studs, Caulks or Calks are metal devices that are screwed or driven into the bottom of your horse's shoes. By protruding from the bottom of the shoe, they can help to provide traction over muddy or deep footing, such as sand, and help your horse jump more confidently.

Before using studs, holes are "tapped," or drilled, into both heels, and sometimes the toes, of the horse's shoe. Obviously the size of the hole must accommodate the stud and generally in the US, farriers will tap a hole that supports a 3/8" diameter stud. Therefore, unless you have a special requirement for a smaller hole, such as a pony with very small feet, you should try to stick with 3/8' studs.

The first time you ride your horse with studs you should fit him with some small road studs and let him walk around unmounted for a while to get used to the new feeling (this does not mean turn him out in a field with studs in - horses should never be turned out in studs!)

Here are some simple rules for using studs. These relate to "screw-in" studs rather than "drive-in" studs because screw-in studs are by far the most commonly used types.


Do's: o ALWAYS use studs in pairs, with one on each side of the hoof.

o ALWAYS use small, blunt studs on the inside of your horse's shoes. A large, pointed stud can injure him.

o ALWAYS put protective leg boots on your horse when riding in studs.

o ALWAYS put studs in just before you will be riding and remove them as soon as possible afterwards.

o ALWAYS use the smallest stud you can, considering the conditions. While slipping is dangerous for your horse, a little slipping is much better than jarring your horse's legs with huge studs. Try to find a stud that allows a little slipping, but not so much that your horse's balance will suffer. Studs should be selected that will sink fully into the ground, otherwise they will unbalance the foot.

o ALWAYS try to have someone help you by holding your horse when you are putting studs in, especially if you will be using a Tee Tap (see below).

o ALWAYS be very careful if you have a horse that is likely to kick out at other horses or people. If you have such a horse, try to limit the amount of time you use studs.



Dont's: o NEVER turn your horse out with studs.

o NEVER leave your horse unattended in a stall with studs.

o NEVER trailer your horse with studs.

o NEVER use studs if your horse is lame.

o NEVER put yourself in a position where a horse with studs in can step on you. It is very easy to break a toe this way, even in riding boots.


Your Stud "Toolkit" Ahead of time, you should assemble the following items:
o A selection of studs. Remember that depending on the footing, you might not use the same studs on the inside and outside of your horse's shoes, or you could use different studs on the front than the back shoes. o A horseshoe nail or some type of flat but pointed "pick" to remove stud plugs. Screwdrivers are generally not suitable as they tend to be too "fat" to fit between the plug and the shoe.

o A stud hole cleaner. This is used to remove any debris from the stud hole. Some people use the horseshoe nail for this, but there are many specially-designed tools that will work faster.

o A tap of some type. This is used to clean and sharpen the edges of the threads your farrier drilled into the stud holes. There are many types on the market. The traditional type is a Tee Tap or T-Tap, so named because it is the shape of the letter "T". Recently round "Safety" Taps have become available on the market. These are safer because if your horse steps down on a Tee Tap it can cause an injury whereas a Safety Tap is less likely to cause a problem because it is flat and shaped like a hoof. There are some self-tapping studs starting to come onto the market that should remove the need for a separate Tap, however it is still a good idea to keep a Tap on hand.

o A wrench. This is used to tighten and then remove the studs. You can use a regular adjustable wrench found in most toolkits, although over time the wrench may wear the edges of your studs, making them difficult to use. There are also a number of special wrenches made specifically for horse studs. Even if you use a purpose-made wrench, it is probably not a bad idea to have an adjustable one too.

o A box to keep everything in one place! Studs have a notorious "homing" instinct and will disappear at the smallest opportunity. If you don't capture them in a box, you will never find them again next time you need them.

o Rags or a small sponge. For removing oil or grease from your studs (assuming you oiled and stored them correctly the last time you used them) Studs are definitely slippery when greasy and will jump on this opportunity as part of their escape plan!

The following items are also nice to have: o A magnet for your arm or a magnetic dish. This is useful for keeping steel studs in one place while you work and will reduce the possibility of your studs escaping! o Rubber or cotton plugs or blanks. Most people put plugs in their stud holes when they are not using studs. This keeps the holes clean. There are rubber and cotton plugs and also metal stud blanks. If you use cotton plugs, soak them in oil to prevent the holes rusting. Stud blanks are metal screw-in plugs. If you use these, you will also need a....

o Blank Wrench or Flat-Head Screwdriver. A Blank Wrench is an Allen Key and is inserted into the stud blank to screw the blank in and out of the stud hole. Some stud blanks are designed to be inserted and removed using a Flat Head Screwdriver instead of a Blank Wrench.

o Stud cleaner and lubricant. Your studs will last much longer if you clean and grease them after use. Many people wrap them in an oily rag for storage, or you can use a product such as WD-40. Pretty much anything that repels water will work. There are also specially made stud cleaners available on the market.


Putting Studs in Ideally you should take a lesson from your farrier or trainer before attempting to put studs in yourself. Make sure you and your horse practice at home, until you can put them in and take them out easily, before using them at a competition. If your horse has plugs in his stud holes you will need to remove these first with your horseshoe nail or other implement.


HINT: It is a good idea to take the plugs out, clean the holes and replace the plugs before you leave for a competition. There is nothing more frustrating than not being able to remove a plug when you only have 10 minutes until you should be warming up your horse!Next you will need to clean out the stud hole with whatever tool you have chosen. Make sure that you remove all traces of dirt and debris. Putting studs into dirty stud holes can ruin the threads on your horse's shoes. Then (unless you are using self-tapping studs) you will need to tap the stud hole with a Safety Tap or Tee Tap. Unless you have a very quiet, experienced horse and are experienced with studs, we recommend using a Safety Tap. Basically, you will place the end of the Tap into the stud hole and screw it into the hole. Another benefit of a Safety Tap is that you can't screw the Tap in too far and potentially bruise your horse's hoof, which is possible with a Tee Tap.


HINT: Self-tapping studs are a new option where the stud has a special thread that will clean the threads on your horse's shoes as you insert it. Because they are new, these studs are more expensive than traditional studs, but as long as you don't lose them, they could be a great timesaving investment. Now you can insert the studs. Begin by screwing them in by hand and finally make them nice and tight with your wrench. Be sure that you don't over-tighten them so that you can't undo them after you finish riding!When you are finished riding, remove the studs, plug the holes and store the studs in some form of oily rag or plastic bag with a water repellent - any kind of oil, grease or WD-40 will work. Make sure you keep some rags or a sponge on hand to wipe up the grease! Put your studs back in their box - if you don't they WILL escape!!! And don't forget to have a great ride!

For more information on types of studs and when to use them, please visit www.StudsAndStuff.com