Information on Alternative To Horseshoes in Alabama
Horseshoes and the Trims They Bring - HorseShoe Manufactures Set the Trend, Our Horses Pay the Price
The standard farrier practice is to shoe a normal healthy horse every six to eight weeks. That periodicity takes into account primarily two things, shoe wear and hoof growth. A healthy hoof will grow at about the rate of a quarter inch a month. A quick bit of math that means in two months time the hoof growth will equal about one half inch. That is enough to get a horse out of "balance". Allowing the horse to go more than 60 days without being trimmed or reshod will probably begin to cause stress in the three distal phalanxes. The three foot bones, coffin bone, short pastern bone and long pastern bone carry a lot of weight. It is those three bones that are of the most concern. A hoofed allowed to grow past the normal shoeing interval can lead to dramatically poor performance, injuries or even diseases such as navicular. The best thing you can invest in for your horse is proper hoof care. No hoof, no horse.
There are alternatives to shoeing the horse all the time. The "new" natural "shoemanship" hoof technicians will only trim a horse. The horse is "trimmed" every couple of days to mimic the wear a horse in the wild would incur. The basic theory being if the coffin bone is kept at the constant proper natural angle, then the hoof sole can endure any terrain condition. I have read numerous studies and methods of natural shoeing and trimming and I believe this theory has a lot of merit. I have been using my 4 year old mare as a study specimen of natural trimming and I have never had a problem with her feet. Of course I have a luxury most people don't, I am a farrier, so the frequent rasping and trimming doesn't cost me anything. That would be hard sell to a client that I need to trim their horse every few days.
Here is my traditional view on horseshoeing: Not every horse needs to be shod. I like to think that a horse is very capable of going barefoot in most cases. In Xenophon's day they used to run horse through river pebble roads to harden their hoofs. Now Xenophon also said that looking that hoof was the first thing to do before buying the horse. If all horse buyers did that there would be a lot less hoof problems today. The average Mustang travels rocky and rough country averaging about 20 miles per day. I think a horse only needs shoes under the following circumstances:
- Shoes will increase the performance in a competing horse
- Shoes will correct a severe hoof or leg problem
- Shoes will provide protection to a horse exceeding the wear of his feet
As a general rule, horses requiring shoes will need to be shod anywhere between 4-8 to weeks depending on the hoof growth and the use of the horse. A healthy hoof grows approximately a 1/4 inch a month. Hoof growth depends on a few factors. Mainly use by the horse, this is a two way street. The more the hoof is used, the more blood flows to it and the more it grows. But you also need the proper terrain to wear the hoof down. Nutrition, protein is main property of the hoof. There are also a few other minerals. Remember a hoof is really nothing more than really hard hair. It is made of the exact same properties. So if you wouldn't do it to your hair don't do to your horse's hoof. Don't be fooled by advertisements, spend your money good quality feed and hay, not expensive supplements. In the winter months hoof growth may slow due to the horse using energy to stay warm. Genetics, don't breed or buy a horse with bad feet! The feet are the foundation of the horse. Just say "no" to bad hooves.
In abnormal hoof situations the shoeing periodicity may change dramatically. If a horse has laminitis or is foundered then you may have to play it by ear depending on if the horse begins to get better or get worse. The same would apply to a hoof injury or physical defect you may be trying to correct. Depending on the circumstances a person could be shoeing a certain horse every two weeks. Then exotic materials and techniques may be employed to allow for those complications.
# 1 – What are Nanoflex Horseshoes, and how do they function?
Nanoflex Horseshoes are a shapable polyurethane straight glue on shoe that resembles the natural make-up as well as put on qualities of the hoof. Our footwear are commonly used in performance and also restorative situations as an alternative application with horses that become unresponsive to conventional shoeing techniques.
With their capability to resemble the technician residential or commercial properties of the foot – Nanoflex Horseshoes boost the feature of the hoof, instead of limiting it. This commonly leads to a much more comfortable equine with healthier development.
# 2 – What are the benefits of Nanoflex shoes?
Nanoflex footwear supply several advantages for the steed. Most typically, we listen to customers describing the shoes ability to operate as an all-natural extension of the unguis as the most desirable attribute. The direct glue application together with the shoe’s composition are thought to preserve the regular hoof features of assistance, traction, shock absorption as well as proprioception by bending with the unguis.
In our opinion, traditional adhesive on footwear over long term use tend to reverse the preliminary benefits attained because of the casting nature of an inflexible footwear. In contrast, our observations have found Nanoflex shoes to be successful for long term use and also appear to produce much healthier horn development.
# 3 – How much time will the Nanoflex shoes last?
Nanoflex Horseshoes are created to have the same or comparable life expectancy as typical footwear. We advise shoeing your horse according to the ordinary cycle of 4-6 weeks, based on their personal demands.
# 4 – Are Nanoflex footwear much more costly than conventional shoes?
Yes. The moment it takes to produce our shoes, in addition to the materials as well as craftsmanship required for the application procedure makes Nanoflex Horseshoes a true investment.
# 5 – What makes an equine an excellent prospect for Nanoflex horseshoes?
Under our “Shoes” tab, you will certainly find “Selecting A Candidate” alternative in the drop down menu. If you see this web page you will certainly find a comprehensive description of the 4 main factors we take into consideration before determining if a horse is a Nanoflex prospect.
Name: John Filipelli
Organization: Nanoflex, Inc.
Address: South Florida Trotting Center: 7563 State Road 7, Lake Worth FL 33449, USA
Phone: (954) 857-6337
Find Alternative To Horseshoes in the State of Alabama
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Horseshoes and the Trims They Bring - HorseShoe Manufactures Set the Trend, Our Horses Pay the Price
Horseshoe Studs, Caulks or Calks are metal devices that are screwed or driven into the bottom of your horse's shoes. By protruding from the bottom of the shoe, they can help to provide traction over muddy or deep footing, such as sand, and help your horse jump more confidently.
Before using studs, holes are "tapped," or drilled, into both heels, and sometimes the toes, of the horse's shoe. Obviously the size of the hole must accommodate the stud and generally in the US, farriers will tap a hole that supports a 3/8" diameter stud. Therefore, unless you have a special requirement for a smaller hole, such as a pony with very small feet, you should try to stick with 3/8' studs.
The first time you ride your horse with studs you should fit him with some small road studs and let him walk around unmounted for a while to get used to the new feeling (this does not mean turn him out in a field with studs in - horses should never be turned out in studs!)
Here are some simple rules for using studs. These relate to "screw-in" studs rather than "drive-in" studs because screw-in studs are by far the most commonly used types.
Do's: o ALWAYS use studs in pairs, with one on each side of the hoof.
o ALWAYS use small, blunt studs on the inside of your horse's shoes. A large, pointed stud can injure him.
o ALWAYS put protective leg boots on your horse when riding in studs.
o ALWAYS put studs in just before you will be riding and remove them as soon as possible afterwards.
o ALWAYS use the smallest stud you can, considering the conditions. While slipping is dangerous for your horse, a little slipping is much better than jarring your horse's legs with huge studs. Try to find a stud that allows a little slipping, but not so much that your horse's balance will suffer. Studs should be selected that will sink fully into the ground, otherwise they will unbalance the foot.
o ALWAYS try to have someone help you by holding your horse when you are putting studs in, especially if you will be using a Tee Tap (see below).
o ALWAYS be very careful if you have a horse that is likely to kick out at other horses or people. If you have such a horse, try to limit the amount of time you use studs.
Dont's: o NEVER turn your horse out with studs.
o NEVER leave your horse unattended in a stall with studs.
o NEVER trailer your horse with studs.
o NEVER use studs if your horse is lame.
o NEVER put yourself in a position where a horse with studs in can step on you. It is very easy to break a toe this way, even in riding boots.
Your Stud "Toolkit" Ahead of time, you should assemble the following items:
o A selection of studs. Remember that depending on the footing, you might not use the same studs on the inside and outside of your horse's shoes, or you could use different studs on the front than the back shoes. o A horseshoe nail or some type of flat but pointed "pick" to remove stud plugs. Screwdrivers are generally not suitable as they tend to be too "fat" to fit between the plug and the shoe.
o A stud hole cleaner. This is used to remove any debris from the stud hole. Some people use the horseshoe nail for this, but there are many specially-designed tools that will work faster.
o A tap of some type. This is used to clean and sharpen the edges of the threads your farrier drilled into the stud holes. There are many types on the market. The traditional type is a Tee Tap or T-Tap, so named because it is the shape of the letter "T". Recently round "Safety" Taps have become available on the market. These are safer because if your horse steps down on a Tee Tap it can cause an injury whereas a Safety Tap is less likely to cause a problem because it is flat and shaped like a hoof. There are some self-tapping studs starting to come onto the market that should remove the need for a separate Tap, however it is still a good idea to keep a Tap on hand.
o A wrench. This is used to tighten and then remove the studs. You can use a regular adjustable wrench found in most toolkits, although over time the wrench may wear the edges of your studs, making them difficult to use. There are also a number of special wrenches made specifically for horse studs. Even if you use a purpose-made wrench, it is probably not a bad idea to have an adjustable one too.
o A box to keep everything in one place! Studs have a notorious "homing" instinct and will disappear at the smallest opportunity. If you don't capture them in a box, you will never find them again next time you need them.
o Rags or a small sponge. For removing oil or grease from your studs (assuming you oiled and stored them correctly the last time you used them) Studs are definitely slippery when greasy and will jump on this opportunity as part of their escape plan!The following items are also nice to have: o A magnet for your arm or a magnetic dish. This is useful for keeping steel studs in one place while you work and will reduce the possibility of your studs escaping! o Rubber or cotton plugs or blanks. Most people put plugs in their stud holes when they are not using studs. This keeps the holes clean. There are rubber and cotton plugs and also metal stud blanks. If you use cotton plugs, soak them in oil to prevent the holes rusting. Stud blanks are metal screw-in plugs. If you use these, you will also need a....
o Blank Wrench or Flat-Head Screwdriver. A Blank Wrench is an Allen Key and is inserted into the stud blank to screw the blank in and out of the stud hole. Some stud blanks are designed to be inserted and removed using a Flat Head Screwdriver instead of a Blank Wrench.
o Stud cleaner and lubricant. Your studs will last much longer if you clean and grease them after use. Many people wrap them in an oily rag for storage, or you can use a product such as WD-40. Pretty much anything that repels water will work. There are also specially made stud cleaners available on the market.
Putting Studs in Ideally you should take a lesson from your farrier or trainer before attempting to put studs in yourself. Make sure you and your horse practice at home, until you can put them in and take them out easily, before using them at a competition. If your horse has plugs in his stud holes you will need to remove these first with your horseshoe nail or other implement.
HINT: It is a good idea to take the plugs out, clean the holes and replace the plugs before you leave for a competition. There is nothing more frustrating than not being able to remove a plug when you only have 10 minutes until you should be warming up your horse!Next you will need to clean out the stud hole with whatever tool you have chosen. Make sure that you remove all traces of dirt and debris. Putting studs into dirty stud holes can ruin the threads on your horse's shoes. Then (unless you are using self-tapping studs) you will need to tap the stud hole with a Safety Tap or Tee Tap. Unless you have a very quiet, experienced horse and are experienced with studs, we recommend using a Safety Tap. Basically, you will place the end of the Tap into the stud hole and screw it into the hole. Another benefit of a Safety Tap is that you can't screw the Tap in too far and potentially bruise your horse's hoof, which is possible with a Tee Tap.
HINT: Self-tapping studs are a new option where the stud has a special thread that will clean the threads on your horse's shoes as you insert it. Because they are new, these studs are more expensive than traditional studs, but as long as you don't lose them, they could be a great timesaving investment. Now you can insert the studs. Begin by screwing them in by hand and finally make them nice and tight with your wrench. Be sure that you don't over-tighten them so that you can't undo them after you finish riding!When you are finished riding, remove the studs, plug the holes and store the studs in some form of oily rag or plastic bag with a water repellent - any kind of oil, grease or WD-40 will work. Make sure you keep some rags or a sponge on hand to wipe up the grease! Put your studs back in their box - if you don't they WILL escape!!! And don't forget to have a great ride!
For more information on types of studs and when to use them, please visit www.StudsAndStuff.com
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